Monday, 13 January 2014

Of Boys and Men

It goes without saying that Menswear plays a prominent role in the industry of shirts, shoes and what have you. But are we really allowing menswear to freely explore the peripheries of design like how we do with womenswear? London Collections: Men, organized by the British fashion council( I tried interning with them before haha), though still in its infancy, appears to have finally found that long lost missing algorithm to this  equation that is Men’s Fashion Week.  With heavyweights like Jonathan Saunders and Burberry Prorsum leading the British fashion pact, here are a few standout collections that hit the ground running in London.

Jonathan Saunders 

Ever the iconoclast, Jonathan Saunders went above and beyond ergonomics, and tinkered with the aspect of elevation; by installing into his collection vinyl hobby heels that made his models tower.  The attention to detail, like his emphasis on the couch-floral jacquards, leather tops, and sweaters with matching wraps, exuded an almost-saccharine hearty vibe. I personally think they look like effeminate men waiting on the benches of a cricket game. 
Saunders said his inspiration for the collection originated from the Eighties. “A time period that was about freedom of expression…when no one had any money”, said Saunders. Very much about juxtaposition, Jonathan Saunders opted for contrast in his color palette, by patronizing hues of petrol blue and olive green.

Alexander McQueen
Embodying the cardinal values of eccentricities that Alexander Lee Mcqueen stood for, his Eponymous label, with Sarah burton at its helm, churned out a monochromatic masterpiece that was reminiscent of an urban wasteland. Held in the deconsecrated and derelict Welsh Church, the melancholic atmosphere provided the perfect backdrop for Burton’s perfectly tailored elongated double breasted coats, some with gold lamé fabric stripped across for that added illusion of lackluster decadence. Inspired by the works of John Deakin whom shot the Soho Art scene in the 50s,Burton’s collection was a pleasant nod towards the era of rebellion and counterculture.

 Stunningly prominent in this collection were the three piece kilt suits with military style jackets and trousers, but what really stood out were the pieces in McQueen’s synonymous Tartan Fabric.  Theatrically charged and dramatic right down to the lighting, Mcqueen had its singular moments with its display of bespoke tailoring in the form of dark suits embellished with geometric patterns.

Burberry Prorsum
Occupying two of the most crucial positions in Burberry’s higher echelons, its CEO and Creative director Christopher bailey did not hold back with his artistic display of sublime tailoring and drapery. Titled “A Painterly Journey”, the collection had cultural references dating back to Britain’s 20-century painters were stark and blatantly expressed, as it should be, in the color palette as well as the structure. Cropped suit jackets were juxtaposed with languid equestrian blankets that slung over the shoulders like obscuring capes.

A plethora of texture was seen in Bailey’s use of Silk for their printed white shirts, while their bags were decked in leather and suede. Christopher noted that the collection sprang from the imagery of a “painter on a journey, romantic painters with a masculine point of view”.  Despite having more than enough layers, bailey Managed to find a subtle balance to avoid the chunky aesthetic.  Whether worn or draped across, his fluid trench coats and long, painted flowered scarfs are all anyone will talk about. No doubt, One of the best collections by Bailey thus far. 

Just saying, I'm crushing super hard on this chinese guy. Adorbz!


Inspired by his obsession for the Holy men of India; commonly known as the sahdu, who smear themselves with Ashes, as well as the sublime imagery of explorers hiking up the Himalayas, Marjan Pejoski managed to materialize his concept of a winter collection that had indian dressing imbued in each strand of string. “Spiritual and secular, something old and something modern”, was what the Bali-Based designer cited as his inspiration for the collection.  Truly, his showcase of Menswear brought forward a contemporary approach to men and their winter wear trends.

The clothes had an icy indigenous (almost alien) aura that radiated around it, what with Pejoski’s choice of a clean and pristine white, and sinister black colour palette. Layered to perfection, every look was a voluminous shape of intricate quilting and padding. Some mimicked the look of mysterious monks, with their heads shrouded in Pejoksi’s occult-looking hoods.  Another aspect of interest that Pejoski allowed to permeate the collection was the sport of Hockey. Billowing Sports pants in mimetic monochrome as well as overscaled bomber jackets were prominent enough to make any man enter into a trance.

Quite honestly, I beamed with pride when I realized how much of an impact Men's Fashion week is having on the progress and incline of our dear fashion darlings( I will sayang you forever and ever, KTZ).  With a concrete platform like the London Collections:Men to inspire and spur innovation among designers, we'll soon be swimming in more style trends than we can manage. 

So I know I've been missing out on the action a whole lot lately. That being said, I explored what it meant to be a blogger as compared to being a fashion writer. These two titles no doubt operate on a tangent, both having similar scopes of interest.  However, the purpose of a blogger is intrinsic, whereas a fashion writer's drive is extrinsic. 

He writes for the publication, whereas a blogger, in ever sense of the word, writes for HIMSELF. Being one that never really preferred the vanity of it all, I chose to adopt the latter title. Initially, it felt like a natural progression; I hone my skills as a writer through blogging, and eventually ascend to writer status. But that, as I've come to terms with, is not the case. 

A blogger is singular and expresses his/her interest, independent of anyone else's opinion. He is brave, enough to approach and command others to notice him. As a blogger, he must treed the waters between being an introverted personality and an extroverted social butterfly. 

I admit, I may have forsaken a few blessings I had as a blogger. Atleast now I realize where my attention should be targeted to. At least now, I know how hard my mantle is; how many hits I can take before I start to give way.

So without further ado, here's to being a blogger again. Here's to being who I was all this time.

No comments:

Post a Comment